‘Every Culinary Artist Ought to Study At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Secures 4th on Ranking of London’s Leading Food Spots.

Whenever curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred venues. But, tucked high among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has left the owners completely surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small shop securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.